Maison Valette Clos de Monsieur Noly Pouilly-Fuissé

Maison Valette is a family estate in Chaintré, on the border between the Mâconnais and Beaujolais, now in its third generation under Philippe and Cécile Valette, alongside Philippe's brother Jean-Baptiste. The estate farms 15 hectares planted exclusively to Chardonnay on clay and limestone soils, organic and biodynamic since the early 1990s. Philippe favours very long ageing over quick turnaround, and the estate is regarded as one of the most singular producers of white Burgundy in the Mâconnais.

Clos de Monsieur Noly comes from a small, south-east facing hillside parcel of old vines. The grapes are hand harvested and pressed slowly as whole clusters, then aged on fine lees for over 10 years in old oak barrels that have previously held several different wines, before being transferred to tank ahead of bottling. Expect a golden colour with coppery reflections, and a nose of honey, beeswax, brioche and dried fruit. The palate is rich and powerful, with a gently oxidative character balanced by real saline tension, finishing long and remarkably fresh given its age. Produced in tiny volumes and released on allocation, it's a rare, contemplative white for serious occasions.